The mighty Mekong

Paddling through a canal

Definitely the place to be for having an entertaining local bus experience. Apparently you can take anything on local buses in the South - mountains of merchandise, sacks of cutlery, and even sacks of piglets that squeak like ducklings, or ducklings that smell like piglets.


Definitely the place to be for some swealtering heat, with a high chance of afternoon downpours.


Definitely the place to be for a murky river adventure.




Ben Tre.

Arrival: 22 November 2010

This was the place to be to get off the well trodden path. It was quite concerning being dropped in the middle of somewhere only to discover the hotel rooms are atrocious and very few people speak English.

But this was also the place to be for happy and friendly people who don't speak English but are just as good at charades.

Getting the low down on the mighty Mekong

It was also the place not to get harassed to buy sunglasses, crappy bracelets... and the rest.

We did find a tourist information counter, and organised a guide to collect us in the morning for a Mekong look-around.

Coconut candy production line

It was the place to be for tropical fruits and coconut candy, honey tea and pet pythons. All of which we got to experience on our Mekong tour. My fillings and fingers survived.

Departure: 23 November 2010




Can Tho.

Arrival: 23 November 2010

A local stocking up

The destination of possibly the worst bus driver in Vietnam. This was the place to see snakes of white tourist donning convertible pants, but also the Floating markets of Cai Rang and Phong Dien.

This is also the place to be should you want to be asked "You go by boat?" at regular ten minute intervals.

But it definately the place to go to sit at "Mekong", watch the world go by and eat Vietnamese Pancakes.

I was sad to leave the pancakes.

Departure: 25 November 2010


Chau Doc.

Arrival: 25 November 2010

Almost at the border. This is where you don't trust what the tour offices say about fast boats and slow boats to Cambodia.

But it is a good place to run into people you have met along the way and enjoy a sunset over Vietnam and Cambodia at the same time.

Vietnam to the left, Cambodia on the right

Departure: 26 November 2010, by a not-very-fast fast boat and a bus.

Miss Saigon

Arrival: 19 November 2010

An overnight train delivered us to Ho Chi Mihn City horrifically early, with plenty of time to get to the city centre, chuckle at the backpackers having a curb-side nap in their beers, grab something to eat and have another go at our now well practiced room hunting before the day had even really begun.

The big smoke delivered some definite highlights, including:

Our hood

Blue sky, with only the occasional afternoon downpour, as you would hope for in a sizzling city boasting 84% humidity.

A large backpacker contingent and all the helpful amenities that come with it, including other people to talk to.

Somehow ordering lunch from a totally-Vietnamese menu at a cafe in some back alley somewhere and not getting sick.




Getting some historical context - thanks to the disturbing War Remnants Museum and the incredibly claustrophobic Cu Chi Tunnels - on the suffering indured by the Vietnamese in the last 50 years and how quickly they have developed their country since reunification.

Brett checking out the war machines at the War Remnants Museum

Cu Chi

But there were some definite not-so-great moments, including:

Claustrophobic Cu Chi Tunnels, baby-fetus in a jar, deformed beggars and other disturbing reminders of war.

Constant offers for sunnies, crappy bracelets, cigarettes and other goods and services of a dubious nature.

Curb-side over indulgence

Return of fear of loss of life when crossing roads.

Having one too many expensive beers.

Nearly every waking moment of walking outside of air-con.

Departure: 22 November 2010

Rain rain go away

Hué.

Arrival: 13 November

Raining, but not flooding.

 Wandered around the old Citedal and kept relatively dry thanks to my oversized green rain jacket courtesy of Brett's obsession with 1-day.com. Had to avoid the piles of construction rubbish which could have well been there since last Century.

Local cuisine made up for it. But Brett was pretty excited to discover Troy on HBO. Moto blister getting further irritated. Feilding comments from locals and other tourists on my moto inexperience.

Not a highlight.

Departure: 14 November

Hoi An.

Raining, and flooding. But unlike Hué, there was character. Despite the damp clothes, damp room and damp spirits at first, we enjoyed the city even with the flooding. We weren't the only tourists braving the weather (spot the poncho)! We wandered around the Old City and waded through the markets, previously next to the river, now in it.

We looked in the shops but didn't buy much (a replacement watch was in order... here's hoping it survives longer than the last one) - my only restraint has come from the fact that I have to carry what I buy... I miss deep draws I can pile new clothes in.

I discovered that jandels are the best wet weather item and that sometimes one oversized green rain jacket just doesn't cut it - you need a bright orange poncho and an oversized green rain jacket.

And even when you are wearing a bright orange poncho and an oversized green rain jacket someone will still try and sell you an umbrella.

Departure: 15 November

Nha Trang.

Arrival: 16 November

Another night bus - this one much smellier - bought us to the usually sunny beachside resort of Nha Trang. Also raining.

Not good for sunbathing.

Not good for island hopping.

Not good for snorkelling.

Not good for much, but eating and drinking.

Departure: 18 November

Hanoi to Hué

Departed Hanoi on a hard seat train to Ninh Binh on 11 November. This caused much amusement with the locals, particularly as we almost got off one stop too early. To be fair, "Nam Dinh" does sound a whole lot like "Ninh Bihn" when spoken a million miles an hour and is hard to pick in amoungst all the other Vietnamese words. We then made friends with the family sitting across the isle, but then the old man started pointing at me and doing weird hand actions so our non-conversation ended rather abruptly there.

Not to worry - Ninh Binh is located only 98 kms south of Hanoi - a mere two and a half hour journey. So we arrived with only midly sore backsides, only to get much worse.




After checking into our Guesthouse we rented a moto (scooter) from our host and spent the afternoon driving around the local countryside visiting:

Tam Coc a la "Halong Bay on the rice paddies" where we were rowed by locals along the river in between (and through) limestone mountains.

Weaved through the back roads in attempt to avoid the swarms of ducks and herds of cows wandering all over the road.

Found a pagoda complete with a crazy Veitnamese guide who spoke no English (and what I suspect was very little Vietnamese) who insisted we take a photo of everything!

We also spent the next day on a moto, driving 65km to the mostly pristine Cuc Phuong National Park. This is Vietnam's oldest National Park (since 1962) and is home to a prehistoric man's cave, some rather large trees, and an Endagered Primate Rescue Centre. It is also home to the first giant spider in the wild viewed by me, and first poisionous snake in the wild also viewed by me. Australia eat your heart out!

I also learned (the hard way) never to touch the moto exhaust, and now rep a hefty burn to my right calve, and that a too long on the back of a moto is not fun for bums (could explain the forced smile above).

And with that we departed Ninh Binh on a "sleeper" bus to Hué, which allowed minimal sleep in between the eratic breaking and consistent tooting of the bus driver, minimal footspace of the beds, and loud chatting of the locals up the front. Next time we are taking the train.

Hoi Hoi Ha Noi

Arrival: 05 November 2010

After five nights in this manic city there are a few things I have learnt..

Traffic in the Old Quarter

• They don't have Poweraide.
• Hanoi's footpaths are for motobikes so you are better off walking on the road
• Hanoi's roads are life-threatening so you are screwed either way.
• If you have to cross the road, just start walking and hope you don't get hit but a bike/moto/car/bus otherwise you will never get anywhere

• There are more boats in Halong Bay than anywhere I have ever seen... EVER. Not quite the Indochine dream but still an amazing place to visit.

Halong Bay from the Surprising Cave

Floating fishing villages off Cat Ba Island

 
There are also a few things I still haven't learnt:

Street eating - Hot Pot and Bia Ha Noi

• Don't eat too much.

• Don't drink too much Bia Ha Noi (Hanoi Beer) as recovery is rough without Poweraide.

• How to stick to the budget.

• Never stand under the shower when you turn on the sink tap, as it is likely that your travel companion has forgotten to adjust the control to the 'sink option' and you will get more water than you bargained for.
• Water resistent is not waterproof... RIP retro-watch (I enjoyed the 3 days we spent together).
• What exactly is the hose next to the toilet for?