Welcome to my adventure. I hope you enjoy it too.

Wednesday, December 29, 2010

Philippines: 7 islands down, 7100 to go

Arrival: 10 December 2010

Welcome to the not-so Asian Asian Archipelago in the Pacific. Here you can spend 21 days of your visa-free holiday eating different fast food each day. You could try Filipino cuisine such as beef in soy sauce, chicken in soy sauce or pork in soy sauce. There is no faster cure of fast-food fatigue.

Jeepeny (oh, and McD's) in Manila
More varied is the local transport. Brett and I have relished (yes - Brett now knows what public transport is) at each opportunity we have to jump on a pimped out Jeepeny. These evolved from U.S. Army Jeeps abandoned here during WWII and now rumble along the main roads, slowing down just enough to let you jump on and squeeze onto the benches in the back while a dozen locals already squashed in there stare to their hearts content. The Jeepenys very rarely stop running, but should the driver stop for a break, it is none other than a trusty run of the mill screw-driver that will get the ignition on these beasts up and humming again.

I have also been able to convince Brett to use the LRT in Manila, where we inadvertinly embarked on the female only carraige and enjoyed a roomy and nice-smelling ride, while all the men were squashed up to the windows in the carriage behind. A lucky escape for Brett I think.

Pimping Traysikel on Mactan
Not so luxurious excursions have been made by 'traysikels' (read: tricycles), where we have been bumped around on the always rough roads in the cities, small towns and provinces and have slipped and slided up mountainous passes to reach a track to the village of Batad, only accessible by a further two hour trek, surrounded by 2000 year old World Heritage listed rice terraces.




Batad village and rice terraces

We have also explored the historic Spanish town of Vigan in Northern Luzon, also World Heritage listed, with a well-worn horse and cart with an equally well-worn driver.

Casse Crisologo, Vigan


Not so enjoyable have been the overnight buses with arctic Air-Con, the local buses that stop every minute, delayed and re-routed flights and rat infested ferries. But all have enabled us to see some pretty amazing sights (abet much less than we hoped to have seen in our 21 days). After our epic pilgramage to Banaue, Batad and then Vigan (with a two day recovery stopover at a small resort in San Fernando.. somewhere between Manila and Vigan), we treated ourselves to four nights on the island paradise of Boracay where we proceeded to lay on the white sand, swim in the aqua-marine water, snorkel a bit, enjoy 2 - 8pm happy hour, the occasional jungle party and winge about how tough we really do have it.

Snorkel, snorkel


White Beach, Boracay


Tarsier
Our departure from Borocay was heart-wrenching, but with promises to come back one day with friends - anyone in? - we began another epic pilgrimage to Cebu and then on the recommendation from some locals on the bus, on to Bohol, famous for 'Chocolate hills' and a small crazy primate called the Tarsier. As it rained with more pressure than any of the showers we have so far been provided with, we did not get to visit the hills that were not so chocolaty due to the rain, but did make it to get a good look at the Tarsier, who has eyes at 150 times the proportion of human eyes, and can turn its head 180 degrees in both directions without the slightest movement in the rest of its body. Funnily enough, there was a baby on the Jeepeny back to town that stared at me so much that it too looked like a Tarsier.



Jungle river swimming


We now lurk on Mactan Island, waiting in keen anticipation for the German owners of our accommodation to feed their two pythons kept out the front of our room, avoiding Filipino food as if our lives depend on it, and for our flight to KL tomorrow.


Departure: 30 December 2010

Tuesday, December 14, 2010

What Wat?

Arrival: 03 November 2010

The Northern half of Cambodia is scattered with ruined temples, like the mosquito bites on my legs.

Brett and I have seen many, many, maybe too many temples around Siem Reap.

Brett's new camera got a workout
We have been to Bayon with its hundreds of faces, Preah Khan with is massive ruins hiding snakes and other more ancient suprises, Te Promh with its overgrowing trees and Tomb-Raider-ness, Banteay Srei, with its crazy number of tourists and a dozen more temples in between.

The carvings have been most impressive, in addition to how they actually built them, and how they have maintained them. Heck, its all impressive.


The bus stop
We have seen a few former Empire Capitals, such as Samboprey Kuk on a dusty road an hour from the dusty town of Kompong Thom (between PP and SR). We stopped here for one night in the best room we have had for $5 so far. I did get a nice photo of a temple being eaten by a tree, but I can't find it now. Perhaps more useful if you are ever in Kompong Thom -  you can catch the bus to Siem Reap from this barber shop and so get to watch men being powdered and shaved while you wait. It was fun.

And of course the biggest of the big, Angkor Wat.
It looks a lot bigger in real life.

For those wanting to see these spectacular constructions for yourself, I would recommend the trip to Siem Reap and there are a few important things you may need to know (other than how to catch a bus from Kompong Thom):
  • there are lots of tuk-tuk drivers (3000 in fact) so they appreciate your business and reward you with cheap rides. 'Batman' also has a sound system in his Batmobile tuk-tuk.
  • there are lots of restaurants and bars so they appreciate your business and reward you with 50c beer, free popcorn and other random cheap-ness. 
  • cocktails come in buckets. Glasses are too fancy for the highly toxic locally-brewed spirits.
  • guesthouses/hotels probably only check their emails once a week.
  • there are lots of guesthouses/hotels so even if the one you chose doesn't read your emails, you wont have to sleep on the street.
  • star-spotters might like to visit next year when Angelina Jolie and John Cena start filming some ridiculous action/romance/temple movie.
  • if you aren't into temples but like snacking on fried tarantulas at bus stops, then this is still the place for you.
Departure: 10 November 2010

    Sunday, December 5, 2010

    Cambodia and Cambodia

    Cambodia has proven to be, as the trusty (but inevitably outdated) guidebook suggested, a place of contrast.

    Phnom Penh has shown the Cambodia of royal riches, rubbish, war and rebuilding.

    In one day you can, and we did, stand in awe of the dazzling Royal Palace, home to the King of the Kingdom  and the 90kg solid gold Buddha resting in the Silver Pagoda in his garden...

    The Royal Palace
     ... and then step over half-submerged clothes and the occasional bone at Cheoung Ek killing fields (watch the movie), and somberly consider the cells,  mug shots and bloodstains decorating  Tuol Sleng "S-21" Prison, which was converted from what was probably a really nice school by the Khmer Rouge.

    Classroom-turned-cells in Tuol Sleng
    Surprisingly serene mass graves

    before wandering along between the river and the many restaurants housed in French colonial buildings and enjoying all the goodness $1 Angkor beer delivers.
    Rural Kampot

    Heading rural, the South has shown a Cambodia that is green with seemingly endless rice fields and bursting with life... anyone who likes children/ducklings/chickens/puppies would love driving around Kampot (although I would perhaps suggest not with Brett unless you like being run off the road).

    It has shown happy and relaxed people, and the best meal so far. I cannot recommend enough a trip to Cambodia if only to go to the Kep Crab Market to try Pepper Crab.

    Crabs are kept fresh in the ocean waiting to be fried in a green pepper sauce and become amazing
    As an aside - Kep also has a wide range of elaborate gates, that used to lead to mansions of the rich Khmers and French colonialists, which now stand empty courtesy of the Khmer Rouge. Should I have enough money to build a mansion I would definitely chose one of these gates to build it behind.

    Bungalowing


    Sihanoukville has shown Cambodia's party side, with endless drink specials and a similar amount of youngsters to take advantage of them. And is probably not to far off its neighbor Thailand for most number of sun loungers per beach.




    Lazing on Serendipity Beach