Philippines: 7 islands down, 7100 to go

Arrival: 10 December 2010

Welcome to the not-so Asian Asian Archipelago in the Pacific. Here you can spend 21 days of your visa-free holiday eating different fast food each day. You could try Filipino cuisine such as beef in soy sauce, chicken in soy sauce or pork in soy sauce. There is no faster cure of fast-food fatigue.

Jeepeny (oh, and McD's) in Manila

More varied is the local transport. Brett and I have relished (yes - Brett now knows what public transport is) at each opportunity we have to jump on a pimped out Jeepeny. These evolved from U.S. Army Jeeps abandoned here during WWII and now rumble along the main roads, slowing down just enough to let you jump on and squeeze onto the benches in the back while a dozen locals already squashed in there stare to their hearts content. The Jeepenys very rarely stop running, but should the driver stop for a break, it is none other than a trusty run of the mill screw-driver that will get the ignition on these beasts up and humming again.

I have also been able to convince Brett to use the LRT in Manila, where we inadvertinly embarked on the female only carraige and enjoyed a roomy and nice-smelling ride, while all the men were squashed up to the windows in the carriage behind. A lucky escape for Brett I think.

Pimping Traysikel on Mactan

Not so luxurious excursions have been made by 'traysikels' (read: tricycles), where we have been bumped around on the always rough roads in the cities, small towns and provinces and have slipped and slided up mountainous passes to reach a track to the village of Batad, only accessible by a further two hour trek, surrounded by 2000 year old World Heritage listed rice terraces.

Batad village and rice terraces

We have also explored the historic Spanish town of Vigan in Northern Luzon, also World Heritage listed, with a well-worn horse and cart with an equally well-worn driver.

Casse Crisologo, Vigan

Not so enjoyable have been the overnight buses with arctic Air-Con, the local buses that stop every minute, delayed and re-routed flights and rat infested ferries. But all have enabled us to see some pretty amazing sights (abet much less than we hoped to have seen in our 21 days). After our epic pilgramage to Banaue, Batad and then Vigan (with a two day recovery stopover at a small resort in San Fernando.. somewhere between Manila and Vigan), we treated ourselves to four nights on the island paradise of Boracay where we proceeded to lay on the white sand, swim in the aqua-marine water, snorkel a bit, enjoy 2 - 8pm happy hour, the occasional jungle party and winge about how tough we really do have it.

Snorkel, snorkel

White Beach, Boracay

Tarsier

Our departure from Borocay was heart-wrenching, but with promises to come back one day with friends - anyone in? - we began another epic pilgrimage to Cebu and then on the recommendation from some locals on the bus, on to Bohol, famous for 'Chocolate hills' and a small crazy primate called the Tarsier. As it rained with more pressure than any of the showers we have so far been provided with, we did not get to visit the hills that were not so chocolaty due to the rain, but did make it to get a good look at the Tarsier, who has eyes at 150 times the proportion of human eyes, and can turn its head 180 degrees in both directions without the slightest movement in the rest of its body. Funnily enough, there was a baby on the Jeepeny back to town that stared at me so much that it too looked like a Tarsier.

Jungle river swimming

We now lurk on Mactan Island, waiting in keen anticipation for the German owners of our accommodation to feed their two pythons kept out the front of our room, avoiding Filipino food as if our lives depend on it, and for our flight to KL tomorrow.


Departure: 30 December 2010

What Wat?

Arrival: 03 November 2010

The Northern half of Cambodia is scattered with ruined temples, like the mosquito bites on my legs.

Brett and I have seen many, many, maybe too many temples around Siem Reap.

Brett's new camera got a workout

We have been to Bayon with its hundreds of faces, Preah Khan with is massive ruins hiding snakes and other more ancient suprises, Te Promh with its overgrowing trees and Tomb-Raider-ness, Banteay Srei, with its crazy number of tourists and a dozen more temples in between.

The carvings have been most impressive, in addition to how they actually built them, and how they have maintained them. Heck, its all impressive.

The bus stop

We have seen a few former Empire Capitals, such as Samboprey Kuk on a dusty road an hour from the dusty town of Kompong Thom (between PP and SR). We stopped here for one night in the best room we have had for $5 so far. I did get a nice photo of a temple being eaten by a tree, but I can't find it now. Perhaps more useful if you are ever in Kompong Thom -  you can catch the bus to Siem Reap from this barber shop and so get to watch men being powdered and shaved while you wait. It was fun.

And of course the biggest of the big, Angkor Wat.

It looks a lot bigger in real life.

For those wanting to see these spectacular constructions for yourself, I would recommend the trip to Siem Reap and there are a few important things you may need to know (other than how to catch a bus from Kompong Thom):

• there are lots of tuk-tuk drivers (3000 in fact) so they appreciate your business and reward you with cheap rides. 'Batman' also has a sound system in his Batmobile tuk-tuk.
• there are lots of restaurants and bars so they appreciate your business and reward you with 50c beer, free popcorn and other random cheap-ness. 
• cocktails come in buckets. Glasses are too fancy for the highly toxic locally-brewed spirits.
• guesthouses/hotels probably only check their emails once a week.
• there are lots of guesthouses/hotels so even if the one you chose doesn't read your emails, you wont have to sleep on the street.
• star-spotters might like to visit next year when Angelina Jolie and John Cena start filming some ridiculous action/romance/temple movie.
• if you aren't into temples but like snacking on fried tarantulas at bus stops, then this is still the place for you.

Departure: 10 November 2010

Cambodia and Cambodia

Cambodia has proven to be, as the trusty (but inevitably outdated) guidebook suggested, a place of contrast.

Phnom Penh has shown the Cambodia of royal riches, rubbish, war and rebuilding.

In one day you can, and we did, stand in awe of the dazzling Royal Palace, home to the King of the Kingdom  and the 90kg solid gold Buddha resting in the Silver Pagoda in his garden...

The Royal Palace

 ... and then step over half-submerged clothes and the occasional bone at Cheoung Ek killing fields (watch the movie), and somberly consider the cells,  mug shots and bloodstains decorating  Tuol Sleng "S-21" Prison, which was converted from what was probably a really nice school by the Khmer Rouge.

Classroom-turned-cells in Tuol Sleng

Surprisingly serene mass graves

before wandering along between the river and the many restaurants housed in French colonial buildings and enjoying all the goodness $1 Angkor beer delivers.

Rural Kampot

Heading rural, the South has shown a Cambodia that is green with seemingly endless rice fields and bursting with life... anyone who likes children/ducklings/chickens/puppies would love driving around Kampot (although I would perhaps suggest not with Brett unless you like being run off the road).

It has shown happy and relaxed people, and the best meal so far. I cannot recommend enough a trip to Cambodia if only to go to the Kep Crab Market to try Pepper Crab.

Crabs are kept fresh in the ocean waiting to be fried in a green pepper sauce and become amazing

As an aside - Kep also has a wide range of elaborate gates, that used to lead to mansions of the rich Khmers and French colonialists, which now stand empty courtesy of the Khmer Rouge. Should I have enough money to build a mansion I would definitely chose one of these gates to build it behind.

Bungalowing

Sihanoukville has shown Cambodia's party side, with endless drink specials and a similar amount of youngsters to take advantage of them. And is probably not to far off its neighbor Thailand for most number of sun loungers per beach.

Lazing on Serendipity Beach

The mighty Mekong

Paddling through a canal

Definitely the place to be for having an entertaining local bus experience. Apparently you can take anything on local buses in the South - mountains of merchandise, sacks of cutlery, and even sacks of piglets that squeak like ducklings, or ducklings that smell like piglets.


Definitely the place to be for some swealtering heat, with a high chance of afternoon downpours.


Definitely the place to be for a murky river adventure.




Ben Tre.

Arrival: 22 November 2010

This was the place to be to get off the well trodden path. It was quite concerning being dropped in the middle of somewhere only to discover the hotel rooms are atrocious and very few people speak English.

But this was also the place to be for happy and friendly people who don't speak English but are just as good at charades.

Getting the low down on the mighty Mekong

It was also the place not to get harassed to buy sunglasses, crappy bracelets... and the rest.

We did find a tourist information counter, and organised a guide to collect us in the morning for a Mekong look-around.

Coconut candy production line

It was the place to be for tropical fruits and coconut candy, honey tea and pet pythons. All of which we got to experience on our Mekong tour. My fillings and fingers survived.

Departure: 23 November 2010




Can Tho.

Arrival: 23 November 2010

A local stocking up

The destination of possibly the worst bus driver in Vietnam. This was the place to see snakes of white tourist donning convertible pants, but also the Floating markets of Cai Rang and Phong Dien.

This is also the place to be should you want to be asked "You go by boat?" at regular ten minute intervals.

But it definately the place to go to sit at "Mekong", watch the world go by and eat Vietnamese Pancakes.

I was sad to leave the pancakes.

Departure: 25 November 2010


Chau Doc.

Arrival: 25 November 2010

Almost at the border. This is where you don't trust what the tour offices say about fast boats and slow boats to Cambodia.

But it is a good place to run into people you have met along the way and enjoy a sunset over Vietnam and Cambodia at the same time.

Vietnam to the left, Cambodia on the right

Departure: 26 November 2010, by a not-very-fast fast boat and a bus.

Miss Saigon

Arrival: 19 November 2010

An overnight train delivered us to Ho Chi Mihn City horrifically early, with plenty of time to get to the city centre, chuckle at the backpackers having a curb-side nap in their beers, grab something to eat and have another go at our now well practiced room hunting before the day had even really begun.

The big smoke delivered some definite highlights, including:

Our hood

Blue sky, with only the occasional afternoon downpour, as you would hope for in a sizzling city boasting 84% humidity.

A large backpacker contingent and all the helpful amenities that come with it, including other people to talk to.

Somehow ordering lunch from a totally-Vietnamese menu at a cafe in some back alley somewhere and not getting sick.




Getting some historical context - thanks to the disturbing War Remnants Museum and the incredibly claustrophobic Cu Chi Tunnels - on the suffering indured by the Vietnamese in the last 50 years and how quickly they have developed their country since reunification.

Brett checking out the war machines at the War Remnants Museum

Cu Chi

But there were some definite not-so-great moments, including:

Claustrophobic Cu Chi Tunnels, baby-fetus in a jar, deformed beggars and other disturbing reminders of war.

Constant offers for sunnies, crappy bracelets, cigarettes and other goods and services of a dubious nature.

Curb-side over indulgence

Return of fear of loss of life when crossing roads.

Having one too many expensive beers.

Nearly every waking moment of walking outside of air-con.

Departure: 22 November 2010

Rain rain go away

Hué.

Arrival: 13 November

Raining, but not flooding.

 Wandered around the old Citedal and kept relatively dry thanks to my oversized green rain jacket courtesy of Brett's obsession with 1-day.com. Had to avoid the piles of construction rubbish which could have well been there since last Century.

Local cuisine made up for it. But Brett was pretty excited to discover Troy on HBO. Moto blister getting further irritated. Feilding comments from locals and other tourists on my moto inexperience.

Not a highlight.

Departure: 14 November

Hoi An.

Raining, and flooding. But unlike Hué, there was character. Despite the damp clothes, damp room and damp spirits at first, we enjoyed the city even with the flooding. We weren't the only tourists braving the weather (spot the poncho)! We wandered around the Old City and waded through the markets, previously next to the river, now in it.

We looked in the shops but didn't buy much (a replacement watch was in order... here's hoping it survives longer than the last one) - my only restraint has come from the fact that I have to carry what I buy... I miss deep draws I can pile new clothes in.

I discovered that jandels are the best wet weather item and that sometimes one oversized green rain jacket just doesn't cut it - you need a bright orange poncho and an oversized green rain jacket.

And even when you are wearing a bright orange poncho and an oversized green rain jacket someone will still try and sell you an umbrella.

Departure: 15 November

Nha Trang.

Arrival: 16 November

Another night bus - this one much smellier - bought us to the usually sunny beachside resort of Nha Trang. Also raining.

Not good for sunbathing.

Not good for island hopping.

Not good for snorkelling.

Not good for much, but eating and drinking.

Departure: 18 November

Hanoi to Hué

Departed Hanoi on a hard seat train to Ninh Binh on 11 November. This caused much amusement with the locals, particularly as we almost got off one stop too early. To be fair, "Nam Dinh" does sound a whole lot like "Ninh Bihn" when spoken a million miles an hour and is hard to pick in amoungst all the other Vietnamese words. We then made friends with the family sitting across the isle, but then the old man started pointing at me and doing weird hand actions so our non-conversation ended rather abruptly there.

Not to worry - Ninh Binh is located only 98 kms south of Hanoi - a mere two and a half hour journey. So we arrived with only midly sore backsides, only to get much worse.




After checking into our Guesthouse we rented a moto (scooter) from our host and spent the afternoon driving around the local countryside visiting:

Tam Coc a la "Halong Bay on the rice paddies" where we were rowed by locals along the river in between (and through) limestone mountains.

Weaved through the back roads in attempt to avoid the swarms of ducks and herds of cows wandering all over the road.

Found a pagoda complete with a crazy Veitnamese guide who spoke no English (and what I suspect was very little Vietnamese) who insisted we take a photo of everything!

We also spent the next day on a moto, driving 65km to the mostly pristine Cuc Phuong National Park. This is Vietnam's oldest National Park (since 1962) and is home to a prehistoric man's cave, some rather large trees, and an Endagered Primate Rescue Centre. It is also home to the first giant spider in the wild viewed by me, and first poisionous snake in the wild also viewed by me. Australia eat your heart out!

I also learned (the hard way) never to touch the moto exhaust, and now rep a hefty burn to my right calve, and that a too long on the back of a moto is not fun for bums (could explain the forced smile above).

And with that we departed Ninh Binh on a "sleeper" bus to Hué, which allowed minimal sleep in between the eratic breaking and consistent tooting of the bus driver, minimal footspace of the beds, and loud chatting of the locals up the front. Next time we are taking the train.

Hoi Hoi Ha Noi

Arrival: 05 November 2010

After five nights in this manic city there are a few things I have learnt..

Traffic in the Old Quarter

• They don't have Poweraide.
• Hanoi's footpaths are for motobikes so you are better off walking on the road
• Hanoi's roads are life-threatening so you are screwed either way.
• If you have to cross the road, just start walking and hope you don't get hit but a bike/moto/car/bus otherwise you will never get anywhere

• There are more boats in Halong Bay than anywhere I have ever seen... EVER. Not quite the Indochine dream but still an amazing place to visit.

Halong Bay from the Surprising Cave

Floating fishing villages off Cat Ba Island

 
There are also a few things I still haven't learnt:

Street eating - Hot Pot and Bia Ha Noi

• Don't eat too much.

• Don't drink too much Bia Ha Noi (Hanoi Beer) as recovery is rough without Poweraide.

• How to stick to the budget.

• Never stand under the shower when you turn on the sink tap, as it is likely that your travel companion has forgotten to adjust the control to the 'sink option' and you will get more water than you bargained for.
• Water resistent is not waterproof... RIP retro-watch (I enjoyed the 3 days we spent together).
• What exactly is the hose next to the toilet for?

Western Australia

Summer is an eight month event so there is plenty of opportunity to get out and see the world of Perth. There are beautiful beaches and over tanned people galore.

However, I have the feeling that the world according to Australia is a lot different to the real world.

Thirty minute news programming does not allow for much opportunity to get to know what's happening in the real world, once you account for the AFL news of the day. My four years of politics and international relations has become obsolete all the while I have been sunbathing and swimming and enjoying the nice weather. Don't ask me what has happened in the real world in the last 24 months - I wouldn't have the foggiest.

So what have I been up to? Well, since it has been almost a whole year since I last wrote a substantial email (the draft is still on my desktop taunting me), I have:

• hit the road armed with a Wicked Camper and only Kat for company (the stereo was alarmingly not functional) for a 2000km drive up the coast from Perth to Exmouth. We were rewarded with the pristine waters of Turqoise Bay (pictured) and a once in a life-time meet and eat with the Whale Sharks. This was a nice change from the never ending desert and scrub we endured for 10 days. I am still searching for Dugongs, as Shark Bay did not deliver.
• wined and dined in Margaret River. Thanks for my first Chilli Mussels experience Duckstein Brewery!
• worked my butt off to organise a professional development week for 750 Central Institute of Technology staff.... event management career? No thanks.
• Watched my little cousins get that little bit taller, made some awesome friends and spent a few too many nights at the Burswood Casino.

For those that haven't made it over to visit in the last two years, Perth is an ideal working holiday destination - I would reccommend it - But the real world and I will need to be reunited at some stage in the near future. Perhaps asia will provide a better window to the world?