Cambodia has proven to be, as the trusty (but inevitably outdated) guidebook suggested, a place of contrast.
Phnom Penh has shown the Cambodia of royal riches, rubbish, war and rebuilding.
In one day you can, and we did, stand in awe of the dazzling Royal Palace, home to the King of the Kingdom and the 90kg solid gold Buddha resting in the Silver Pagoda in his garden...
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| The Royal Palace |
... and then step over half-submerged clothes and the occasional bone at Cheoung Ek killing fields (watch the movie), and somberly consider the cells, mug shots and bloodstains decorating Tuol Sleng "S-21" Prison, which was converted from what was probably a really nice school by the Khmer Rouge.
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| Classroom-turned-cells in Tuol Sleng |
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| Surprisingly serene mass graves |
before wandering along between the river and the many restaurants housed in French colonial buildings and enjoying all the goodness $1 Angkor beer delivers.
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| Rural Kampot |
Heading rural, the South has shown a Cambodia that is green with seemingly endless rice fields and bursting with life... anyone who likes children/ducklings/chickens/puppies would love driving around Kampot (although I would perhaps suggest not with Brett unless you like being run off the road).
It has shown happy and relaxed people, and the best meal so far. I cannot recommend enough a trip to Cambodia if only to go to the Kep Crab Market to try Pepper Crab.
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| Crabs are kept fresh in the ocean waiting to be fried in a green pepper sauce and become amazing |
As an aside - Kep also has a wide range of elaborate gates, that used to lead to mansions of the rich Khmers and French colonialists, which now stand empty courtesy of the Khmer Rouge. Should I have enough money to build a mansion I would definitely chose one of these gates to build it behind.
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| Bungalowing |
Sihanoukville has shown Cambodia's party side, with endless drink specials and a similar amount of youngsters to take advantage of them. And is probably not to far off its neighbor Thailand for most number of sun loungers per beach.
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| Lazing on Serendipity Beach |